American Duchess Sewalong - Hem & closure (Dec 13-Dec 20)

Discussion in 'Costume/Cosplay' started by Melearlin Valar, Dec 13, 2020.

  1. Melearlin Valar

    Melearlin Valar Aes Sedai

    Joined:
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    The home stretch!

    At this point we just need to sandwich the two halves together and sew em up!

    Baste your collar to the outer fabric. Remember, your collar does have a top and bottom; make sure the bottom is touching the outside of the outer fabric so that the top (with contrast) will show when you are wearing it. (You could just pin the collar, but I highly recommend basting since we'll be dealing with a lot of layers of fabric).

    At this point, you have a few options:

    bag lining, following the pattern instructions (copy pasted here)
    1) Take the entire fabric cape and lining, place them right-sides together. Pin and stitch around all edges EXCEPT a 5” or so section at the bottom edge of the back that will be used to turn through (you may need more open if fabric is bulky). This will also sandwich the collar between the two layers.

    2) Trim back corners and clip the neckline curve.

    3) Turn right-sides out and carefully iron around all edges. This may require some basting if the fabric is difficult to iron. **If you are using velvet or another fabric that does not iron well at all, you may want to top-stitch around the edges to keep them from rolling OR hand-stitch the entire lining in.**

    4) Slip-stitch the gap you turned through closed

    if hand sewing:
    So I hate bag lining, if you aren't extremely precise in cutting, I find that it's easy for either the outside or inside to end up a little bit bigger or smaller and then you end up with pulling. So if you don't mind a bit of handstitching, here's what you can do:

    1) clip/notch your curves, making sure your triangle notches stay within the seam allowance. You'll want to do this on the bottom hem where you are dealing with a curve (the front edges are straight lines, no need to clip here.

    2) Press in the seam allowance of both the lining and the outer fabric (if you can manage it, press in the lining just a smidge more so it ends up smaller than the outer.

    2) Lay one on top of the other. Curse a lot because these pieces are really big. Slip stitch around the whole outside, making sure you are not going through all the way to the outside of the outer fabric (your stitching will just show on the inside.

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    You are done! You did it! Swan around the house in your fabulous cape, because you deserve it :horsey