American Duchess Sewalong - Dart party: Nov 4 - Nov 11 (1 week)

Discussion in 'Costume/Cosplay' started by Melearlin Valar, Nov 3, 2020.

  1. Melearlin Valar

    Melearlin Valar Aes Sedai

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    Hoookay, I finally got my mockup to fit (I promise, your body is not as off the norm as mine, yours won't take this long) so onto the next step!

    Now that you have something that fits, make sure you've transferred any final changes from your mockup to your paper pattern.

    Cut it all out! A few things to note:

    Iron your fabric before cutting.

    Pattern layouts are nonsense. Seriously. Cutting single layer or ignoring pattern layouts will save you so much fabric. Especially something with giant honking sleeves pieces like this cape.

    Make sure you know whether or not your pattern includes seam allowance. If your pattern doesn't have it, make sure to leave seam allowance when you cut, or you will be sad. (I prefer 1/2" which is used in professional pattern making, 5/8" is common in commercial patterns today).

    However, you must lay your pattern pieces out on the correct grain of the fabric. Meaning make sure you know what up and down is and lay out the pieces accordingly. Rotating pattern pieces will end up putting them on the bias, that aren't meant to be, and then you will also be sad.

    If your pattern has a right/wrong side, make sure you cut out a left and right side, and not two right sides. Believe me, I've been there...

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    There are several ways to mark your darts, depending on whether you kept them as straight lines, and how amenable your fabric is.

    My preferred method for marking is frixion pens, whose ink disappears when you iron it (although test it out first). If your fabric is light enough, you can lay it on top of the pattern and just trace through.

    My fabric is dark enough that pens won't work, so I'm using chalk (on the wrong side only. If you are marking the right side, do a test first to see if it will come off).

    Since these darts are straight, you only need to mark the ends of the darts, and the point. Then you can just get out a ruler and play connect the dots.

    You can also use transfer paper and a tracing wheel to mark the entire dart under the pattern.

    Last, if you have none of these items, you can use a tailor tack to mark the point of the dart, and snip very slightly into the seam allowance for the legs. Then again play connect the dots.
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    To pin my darts, I enter and exit my pin on the line, making sure it is going through the line on both sides of the fabric (I seriously messed with the contrast here to make the pin visible).
    [​IMG]

    OPTIONAL COUTURE TECHNIQUE (Or if you have a super wiggly or bouncy fabric that doesn't like to play nicely):
    Baste your dart either on or just inside the seamline. Then you know it isn't going anywhere when you sew it.
    [​IMG]
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    To sew darts:
    Follow the instructions here:


    The key instructions there are that at the end of the dart, reduce the stitch length to something small, then take a few stitches in the seam allowance. You do not want to do reverse stitching or tie a knot in your thread at the end of your dart, because it will end up with a lump there.

    Trim your excess fabric of the darts back to a ½” seam allowance
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    Press all your darts. The general convention is that darts should be pressed downward (if it's a horizontal dart) or towards the center of the body (if it's a vertical dart). These are neither? My plan is to do the lining darts upward and the fashion fabric darts downward so they are in different directions, to reduce bulk.

    That's all for this week! It's not a lot, but there are also 12 darts to sew. You will be a dart expert by the end!
     
  2. Laralelle Susandrea

    Laralelle Susandrea Aes Sedai

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    Oh sweet baby Jesus those were some MASSIVE darts! I'm exhausted!
     
  3. Melearlin Valar

    Melearlin Valar Aes Sedai

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    I know right?!? And a truly ridiculous number of them.