American Duchess Cape Sewalong - Scaling the Pattern - Due 10/10

Discussion in 'Costume/Cosplay' started by Melearlin Valar, Oct 3, 2020.

  1. Melearlin Valar

    Melearlin Valar Aes Sedai Tower Gatekeeper

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    Time for the next step of the sew-along, scaling up your pattern! (It’s ok if you don’t have materials yet, since you won’t need them until after the pattern is ready).

    There are quite a few ways to scale up a gridded pattern to full size, depending on what equipment you have.

    If you have just have paper:

    Follow this youtube video! (hey, if they’ve already filmed it at decent quality, no reason for us to repeat it ;) )

    A few notes: You don’t have to make an entire grid for the full length of the piece, since the pieces are big. Just make as many lines or dots as you need to get in approximately the right ballpark. We can true up the seams later.

    This is even more straightforward if you already have gridded paper, then you don’t have to make your own grid:

    I use medical paper (with no grid) over a cutting mat. I can see through the medical paper enough to have somewhat of a grid to mark off key points, then play connect the dots.

    If you have just paper and hate grids

    The radial projection method! I’m actually rather partial to this one if you really have no grid at all, especially for bigger pieces. (For small pieces drawing your own grid is not so painful.)

    If you have a projector:

    Lucky you! Tape some paper down and trace the pattern off, making sure the squares measure 1”.

    Note, I do not recommend projecting your pattern straight onto the fabric and cutting. Let’s do paper so we can do a mockup first (unless you are very confident).

    If you have photoshop and a printer: Instructions here! https://blog.americanduchess.com/2019/04/how-to-scale-up-gridded-sewing-patterns.html (note it may be possible to do this in a free program like GIMP, but I don’t know how. If you do and want to post instructions, other folks would appreciate it!)

    If you have a printer, but no photoshop, and don’t mind going through a bit of paper:

    1. You can treat this like a PDF pattern, you just have to find the right zoom percent first.
    2. Print out one page of the pattern.
    3. Measure a square.
    4. Do the math to figure out how much you need to blow up the pattern by. For example, if your printed square is ⅛”, you would need to increase it by 1 divided by ⅛, which equals 8, or 800%.
    5. Since printers can be a bit off, don’t just print out the whole thing yet. Print out one page of your pattern at 800%. Measure it when it comes out - are the squares 1”? If so, print out the rest. If not, tweak your % a bit. Print again until you find what works.
    6. Tape your pattern pieces together (tutorial here if you haven’t done so).
    If you know someone who already has the pattern:
    Pay them $10 to trace it off and mail it to you :look Look, I have a toddler, and I hate scaling up patterns to be honest, so this is the route I went with a friend. Requires that you have friends who sew who have already made this. :look
     
  2. Roheryn ni Galghandhrei t'al'Djinn

    Roheryn ni Galghandhrei t'al'Djinn Aes Sedai Membership Activities Coordinator Head of the Green Ajah

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    As we discussed before, you and I are about the same height....:look Can I pay you? :halo
     
  3. Narysse a'Jahar

    Narysse a'Jahar Aes Sedai

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    Pro tip from Bernadette Banner:

    Wrapping paper. Use the wrong side. Many now come with grids on the back and the squares are on the inch scale!

    I got some heavy duty wrapping paper figuring that I could scale up the pattern on that, and totally by accident managed to get a roll of paper with the inch grids on the back.

    The key, of course, is that when you go to cut out the pattern, make sure you label that there's no ease added.....and then remember to add in seam allowance when you cut it out!! (Also a great reason to get a yard or two extra than what you're going to actually need.....I forgot to add in the seam allowance with one section of the front panels so now I'm going to be making a pair of slacks or a cowl to go with it! :look)

    I used normal blackboard chalk to mark out my pattern on my fabric. Beginner's tip: Get two colors of chalk and trace the actual pattern in one color, then draw in the seam allowance with another. Pro tip: Then, baste along the chalk lines with a very contrasting color thread for a more permanent marking that can be removed after.
     
  4. Leira Galene

    Leira Galene Aes Sedai Head of the Brown Ajah Moderator

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    I wonder if wrapping paper here is still inch scaled or centimeter scaled...
     
  5. Melearlin Valar

    Melearlin Valar Aes Sedai Tower Gatekeeper

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    You can do cm, just a little bit extra math to figure out the conversions. (working in cm would be so much easier than working in inches to be honest. Adding mm is so much more pleasant than adding 1/8th inch fractions)
     
  6. Elia LePhant

    Elia LePhant Aes Sedai Historian

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    Thank you! I’ll be doing the PhotoShop version most likely.
     
  7. Leira Galene

    Leira Galene Aes Sedai Head of the Brown Ajah Moderator

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    Good point. Converting just gets annoying, from my experience following recipes :lol
     
  8. Laralelle Susandrea

    Laralelle Susandrea Aes Sedai

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    Good tips Nary. thanks!! Also, if you're using paper, write on the paper what piece the pattern is AND WHETHER THERE IS SEAM ALLOWANCE. Just, trust me.

    I have made my own patterns, altered patterns, but never scaled one up like this before.
     
  9. Melearlin Valar

    Melearlin Valar Aes Sedai Tower Gatekeeper

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    Oh yes, reminding your future self whether or not there is SA is your friend. I personally prefer patterns without seam allowance, but that's not everyone's jam!
     
  10. Melearlin Valar

    Melearlin Valar Aes Sedai Tower Gatekeeper

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    Has everyone started their scaling yet? If not, try and do just the collar piece today as a kickstarter! It's basically a rectangle so nice and straightforward.
     
  11. Leira Galene

    Leira Galene Aes Sedai Head of the Brown Ajah Moderator

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    Bah, I still need to find paper. Although I'm fully expecting I will be quite a bit behind all of y'all-
     
  12. Melearlin Valar

    Melearlin Valar Aes Sedai Tower Gatekeeper

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    We fully expect a number of us will be behind :look But we will keep waving big motivational flags!
     
  13. Adina al'Mari

    Adina al'Mari Aes Sedai

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    Not sure what I did wrong, but it took way more than 6 pages.
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2020
  14. Dovienya el'Korim

    Dovienya el'Korim Mistress of Slacking Aes Sedai Headmistress

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    I finished mine on Friday and I couldn't be more surprised that it actually turned out!
     
  15. Melearlin Valar

    Melearlin Valar Aes Sedai Tower Gatekeeper

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    Adina, if you are printing it full size, I would definitely expect way more than 6 pages. I've done dresses which were upward of 40 pages, so 20 might be right for something like this.

    Yay Dovi! What method did you use?
     
  16. Adina al'Mari

    Adina al'Mari Aes Sedai

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    Yep, it was 20 for each. Next time I’ll have hubs trim the image more, I don’t need all the extra words and blank space.

    Dumb question- Does the “on the fold” cut go literally on the fold, or does that edge also need a seam allowance?
     
  17. Elia LePhant

    Elia LePhant Aes Sedai Historian

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    It goes right on the fold.
     
  18. Adina al'Mari

    Adina al'Mari Aes Sedai

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    That’s what I thought. Thank you!
     
  19. Dovienya el'Korim

    Dovienya el'Korim Mistress of Slacking Aes Sedai Headmistress

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    I got some tracing paper, drew a grid, and then drew the pattern. What a pain!
     
  20. Narysse a'Jahar

    Narysse a'Jahar Aes Sedai

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    I have most of the pieces scaled up but have been putting off scaling the big back piece because it's intimidating to me to look at that, even though it's no harder than the other pieces.